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It also resolves thatch problems by developing an excellent environment for microbes that degrade thatch. Core aerators are readily available for leasing at lots of hardware shops and equipment suppliers. Use self-propelled units with vertically operating branches when possible; branches installed on drum rollers are less effective because they pull shallower cores.

Two to four passes with the core aerator are adequate. Yard Aeration and Topdressing explains equipment options and method in higher detail. Successfully growing turfgrass in the shade can be difficult. Turfgrass plants are naturally adapted to grow completely sun to partial shade. Greatly shaded grass often thins or passes away, permitting invasion by moss, algae, and shade-loving weeds such as wood violet (Viola spp.) and Creeping Charlie (Glechoma hederacea).

For finest results, plant mixtures including at least 50% fine fescues for dry, shaded conditions. For damp, shaded conditions plant mixes with at least 10% supina bluegrass (P. supina).

Apply fertilizer at the same time as for grass in bright locations but cut the rate in half. Using the full rate on shaded grass temporarily increases leaf development and avoids vigorous root development; eventually the grass passes away as the root system can no longer provide enough water and nutrients to the leaves.

Research study reveals the leaves can be mulched into the lawn without hurting the grass, as long as the blades of grass stay 12 inches above the mulched tree leaves. For some areas, shade-tolerant groundcovers or mulches might be a much better choice than turfgrass.

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They get into wherever turf is weak or thin. Excellent cultural management practices (mowing, fertilization, and irrigation) will motivate growth of dense, healthy grass and crowd out and avoid weeds.

Select an herbicide based on its ability to control the target weed(s). Aspects to consider include the type of weed and the life cycle of the weed (yearly, biennial, or perennial).

Other herbicides are packaged to be used using a garden hose. Herbicide focuses are normally indicated to be applied with a hand-held, knapsack, or tractor-mounted sprayer, though some might include instructions for applying with a hose-end sprayer. Do not buy more herbicide than you will use within 1 year. Usage herbicides safely to avoid injury to yourself and the environment.

If you plan to overseed, follow the directions on the label to make certain the herbicide application does not avoid germination of the seed. Numerous herbicides specify for only certain kinds of weeds; these are called selective herbicides. Nonselective herbicides (e.g., Roundup, Kleenup) will kill any plant that takes in the herbicide.

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Weeds are classified as turfs, sedges, or broadleaves. Most herbicides control only weedy turfs or broadleaf weeds, not both. Read the label on the herbicide container to figure out if the item will manage the type(s) of weeds in your turf. Common grassy weeds in turf include crabgrass, foxtail, and quackgrass.

Pre-emergent herbicides are used to control weeds before they are visible, generally in early spring. Preemergent herbicides are used mostly for control of annual weeds (weeds that live only 1 year) such as crabgrass.

Weed and feed items include both an herbicide and a fertilizer. The herbicide might be for either pre-emergent or post-emergent weed control. Because these products consist of an herbicide they should be kept and managed with the same level of care as any pesticide. Weed and feed items are attractive because it appears as if both weed control and fertility requirements can be accomplished with one application.

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The post-emergent products frequently fail to adequately manage weeds since the weeds soak up too little of the herbicide. When essential, utilize stand-alone preemergent herbicides to avoid problems of annual weeds such as crabgrass.